The Bubbly and Summer

"Is it summer yet?" Aiden, my 5 year old son, asks hopefully. I can understand his confusion; a month ago he was teased with summer weather only to be disappointed the following week with dreary cold rainy days. It seems the hot sunny weather has returned to us and I can finally count down the days to backpacking trips I spent the whole winter planning and fantasizing about. There's something about winter and fall weather that leave me longing for hot sun, juicy summer fruits, and the only time of year my family tolerates salads for dinner. On the flip side, when summer is at its peak, I find myself yearning for perfect white snow, seeing the cold on my breath, dark beers, and the only time of year my family tolerates soup. Today's forecast of a promising high of 88 degrees and Aiden's unshakable belief that it is in fact summer now, leads us to an impromptu fishing trip along the Clearwater River. Not having any clear plan of where we're going, we stop at the first obvious fishing spot and endure vicious mosquitoes and broiling sun while fish jump merrily around us and ignore our worms. Although we come back bitten, sunburnt, and fishless, it was a satisfying summer adventure that leaves me with a sense of peace as I finally get to sit down and relax. Too soon, Aiden declares he's hungry and interrogates me about what's for dinner. At this point in the day, I'm too hot and tried to really put much effort into cooking and decide on a pasta dinner salad. Before we left for fishing, I'd had the foresight to put a bottle of Beresan's 2012 deVine into the fridge, knowing a cold drink would be necessary later in the day. With a quick searing of the steaks, Aiden's help making pesto, and boiling of noodles, dinner should have come together in a flash. Unfortunately, the rice noodles' instructions were in Chinese and my guesstimate of a 2 minute cooking time was overkill. The congealed mass of noodles in the colander necessitates a quick trip to the store for a fresh box of pasta (thin spaghetti this time) and hopefully a successful dinner the second time around. Twenty minutes later, we sit down to a now cold steak salad and the long awaited glass of deVine. With a strong apricot backbone, fruity finish, and a bubbly, almost champagne-like feel this wine is made for light dinners on hot summer days on your back porch... Or at your coffee table watching Arrested Development while your 5 year old regales you with big fish stories and tall tales. Whenever you're in need of a taste of summer or an escape from the heat, try pairing deVine with any light vegetable or pasta dish, grilled chicken, fish, or an impromptu outdoor adventure.

Summer Beef Noodle Salad

(From Tyler Florence's Tyler's Ultimate with my notes)

Salt

Extra-virgin olive oil

2 New York strip steaks (about 1 1/2 lb. total)

Pepper

1 pint cherry/grape tomatoes

Dressing:

1 1/2 bunches of arugula (I used 1/2 of a 5 oz. container of baby arugula)

Juice of 1 lime

1/4 cup roasted peanuts

1 Thai bird chile (I used a Fresno chile)

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt

1 pound thin rice stick noodles (I used thin spaghetti in the end, but angel hair would also work)

1 bunch of arugula (I used the other half of the 5 oz. container of baby arugula)

Handful of mint leaves

1/4 cup roasted peanuts

Bring a pot of salted water to boil for the noodles.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Put a large, ovenproof sauté pan over medium-high heat. Drizzle in a 2-count of olive oil and heat until the oil is smoking. Sprinkle the steaks all over with salt and pepper and sear in the hot pan for a couple of minutes on each side. Shove the steaks to the side. Add the tomatoes to the pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, drizzle with olive oil, and give them a stir to coat with the oil. Then put the pan in the oven and roast 8-10 minutes. Remove the beef to a plate to rest for 10 minutes while you finish things up. Dump the tomatoes into a large bowl.

For the dressing, put the arugula, lime juice, peanuts, chile, and olive oil in a food processor and puree. Season with salt.

Cook the noodles until al dente. Drain in a colander (Save some pasta water in case you need to loosen the sauce) and add them to the bowl with the tomatoes. Add the lime dressing, arugula, mint, and peanuts and give the whole thing a good toss. Cut the meat into thick slices and serve on top of the noodle salad.

Beresan Winery @ Toulouse Petit Kitchen & Lounge

Hey Folks,

Be sure to stop by Toulouse Petit Kitchen & Lounge on June 5, 2012 and visit with the guest sommelier and Beresan's winemaker Tom Glase.  He will be there from 6:30 pm to 9:30 pm.  And... there's a bonus, Beresan Winery will be the featured wine for six weeks so be sure to stop in and taste some of our Malbec, The Buzz, deVine, Sangiovese Rosé, Carmenere, and the Stone River.

The Veg and the Playdough Pasta

As the first rays of sunlight shimmer through the curtain, I go through my mental checklist of things I need to do today: laundry, empty the dishwasher, clean the bird cage, make ricotta cheese, pasta, and tomato sauce for dinner, and do tasting notes on the Cabernet Franc for Mom (that's Debbie of the tasting room to you). I promptly roll over and try to go back to sleep but my attempts at laziness are thwarted by the "stomp-stomp-stomp" of Aiden flying down the stairs, ready to start the day. The promise of wine later in the evening pulls me out of bed and I trudge down the stairs. Aiden always remembers what I tell him and so the second he glimpses me on the stairs the onslaught of questions about dinner ensues. "Are you making noodles for dinner? Can we make cheese now? Noodles need sauce.... Are you making tomato sauce?" Still asleep, I stumble to the kitchen ignoring his questions for now and mentally reminding myself to stop telling Aiden my plans in advance. I pull out my coffee press and boil water while Aiden rambles on about how I'm making dinner wrong, "Noodles definitely don't have coffee and water in them." "Patience," I tell him. With a "hmph" he leaves the kitchen to build the world's tallest tower and I'm able to wake up in peace. Eventually I complete my morning routine and with the help of Aiden's relentless reminders, I know it's time to start the cheese. Ricotta cheese was one of the first things I stopped buying at the store; the gritty flavorless store-bought variety made me demand something better and I discovered how incredibly easy it is to make cheese. The transformation that takes place in a pot of milk and lemon juice excites Aiden and me both and we hover over the pot watching the curds form. "Can I taste some?" he asks every five minutes. Once the ricotta is formed and the whey drained, we pop it into the fridge to cool down. Sometime later, as if he has a psychic connection to the cheese, Aiden runs into the kitchen hollering that's it's cold enough to make noodles. When it comes to making homemade pasta, I've learned to give myself extra time or be prepared for a late dinner, so I relent and follow him. I use the food processor to make quick work of mixing the ingredients and plop the green spinach pasta dough on the counter for a little kneading. "Are we making playdough noodles?" Aiden asks. While the dough rests on the counter, I get started on the tomato sauce. I generally view it as sacrilege to use high quality wines for cooking, but I only need a little to deglaze the pan and it gives me an excuse to start drinking before dinner. The first taste of the 2008 Cabernet Franc is so-so and I'm disappointed it isn't as bold as previous years. However a few minutes later, I'm able to discern underlying flavors and complexities the older years lacked. With a definite vegetal quality about it, I'm excited to not only taste it in the tomato sauce but being paired with dinner it promises to be a match made in heaven. Now that the sauce is ticking away it's time to start rolling out the noodles, a task I tend to dread but excites Aiden immensely. I roll out the dough into a big round, cut out little nuggets, and roll into little asparagus tip shaped noodles. Aiden proudly eyes his handiwork and declares he can't wait to eat the noodles he's made. While I wait for the noodles to cook, I sip more wine and try to place my finger on the mysterious berry notes but to no avail. Frustrated, I sit down to eat and take my first tentative drink of Cabernet Franc paired with dinner. The Cab definitely comes alive next to the tomato sauce and transforms a first so-so taste into an extraordinary wine. With the vegetal backbone, mystery berry notes, and dare I say a hint of cinnamon, I would pair this wine with any roasted or grilled meats and even fish. However, I think the real stars that brings out the best in this Cabernet Franc is delicious tomato sauce, homemade pasta, and time spent with a 5 year old clown.

Homemade Spinach Garganelli

(From Rachael Ray's My Year in Meals with a few adjustments from me)

1 (10 ounce) box frozen chopped spinach, thawed and wrung dry

12 ounces ricotta, drained of excess liquid

Freshly grated nutmeg

Salt and pepper

1 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 large egg yolk

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 cup semolina flour, plus more for dusting

Place the spinach in a food processor and pulse-chop it even further into little bits. Add the ricotta to the food processor with a little dusting of nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Drizzle in the olive oil; add the yolk, and flours. Process until combined. Remove the dough from the processor and knead it lightly, then cover with a kitchen towel and let it relax for 30 minutes.

Roll the ball of dough out into a long oval, a couple of feet long and 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick. *I had to cut the dough in half and roll it out twice due to lack of counter space* Cut into thin ropes about 1/4 inch wide. Cut the ropes into little 1 1/2 inch pieces. Use your hands to roll out a thin noodle, about 2 inches long.

Dust a big baking sheet with semolina flour. Once the pasta is rolled, you throw it onto the backing sheet until you're ready to cook (or freeze for later). Cook for about 5 minutes in boiling, salted water or until they float just like gnocchi and don't taste gummy anymore.

Sicilian Sauce

(From Rachael Ray's My Year in Meals)

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

6 to 8 anchovy fillets

1 red chile, seeded and finely chopped

6 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 cup red wine

1 (28 ounce) can plum tomatoes

8 to 10 fresh basil leaves, torn

In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the anchovies, cover the pan with a lid, and shake until the anchovies begin to break up (they'll stop spitting so violently). Reduce the heat a bit, uncover, and stir until the anchovies melt into the oil. Add the chile, garlic, and oregano. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes.

Add the tomato paste and let it cook out for a minute before deglazing the pan with the red wine. Add the tomatoes and basil. Simmer until thick, about 30 minutes.

The Workhorse and the Squooshy Patties

"Let's get cooking!" my five-year old, Aiden, excitedly exclaims. I groan inwardly, looking at the clock. I know I need to make dinner, but I've already spent the whole day in the kitchen. It's my husband's birthday and he has requested homemade veggie burgers. I'm generally a selfish cook; I like red chiles, lots of garlic, and I don't have much of a sweet tooth, much to the angst of my son, so when a real request is made I can get pretty gung ho. After my morning coffee, I get started on homemade hamburger buns which sadly turned out as slider buns. "Why are they so small?" my son asks. "Well these ones are just for you!" I lie, pulling the container of dough back out of the fridge with a sigh. While the new batch of hopefully bigger buns rests on the counter, I cook the lentils and quinoa required for the patties and Aiden helps make a carrot cake. Unfortunately, the cake promptly falls apart when I release it from the springform pan. My day in the kitchen is not going well and at this point I want to scream, but Aiden is looking expectantly at me. "Well, it's a good thing we're going to frost it." I half-heartedly say. My husband texts me "Do you need anything from the store?" which I know is code for "Do you need me to bring home beer?" Burgers and beer go together like peanut butter and jelly, but I'm not one to follow the rules. "Birthdays are special days and should be celebrated!" I convince myself as I peer inside the case of wine recently procured from Beresan. I contemplate googling wine pairings for veggie burgers but immediately toss the thought aside. "Life's more of an adventure if you take risks" I tell Aiden. I vaguely remember Julia Child saying "Rosés can be served with anything" and pop it in the fridge. My experience with Rosés is very limited and I'm not sure what to make of this pink wine. Is it a white trying to be a red or a red trying to be a white? "Let's get cooking!" Aiden says again and starts to pull out random pots and pans. I sauté the veggies and toss them all in the food processor with the previously cooked lentils, quinoa, and chickpeas and decide that whatever food processor Rachael Ray uses is not what I have. I dump out half of the patty mix and coax my sub-par food processor into doing its job. From previous experience, I know that veggie burger patties don't hold their shape as well as their meat counterparts, so I gently lay them in the pan and think to myself "The worst has to be over now, I'm home-free!" Unfortunately, when I flip the patties they squoosh out to double their previous circumference and threaten to fall apart completely if attempt to resize them. I top them with provolone and cover the pan with foil so I don't have to look at them. I split the still-too-small-hamburger buns and slice my finger open. "Band-Aid!" I yell to my husband as I pour a glass of wine. My stressful day is soon forgotten with the bright fruity flavors reminding me of summer and the surprisingly bold finish makes me want to sip more. "This is the ever burger you ever just made!" Aiden proclaims. "What the heck does that mean?" I ask laughing. "You did a good job." 

I am by no means an expert on wine. I'm just a passionate foodie that enjoys the challenge of selecting a perfect wine to compliment the meal I inevitably put too much time into. I don't follow the rules and I make mistakes, however this time I was spot on. The 2012 Beresan Sangiovese Rosé melded perfectly with the earthy veggie patties and brightened up the meal enough to make a stressful day in the kitchen worth it in the end. I think Julia Child is right and you can serve Rosé with just about anything, making it (in my mind) the workhorse of wines. When in doubt, go with the Rosé! Unless it's carrot cake.... 

Mediterranean Veggie Burgers with Provolone and Italian Ketchup 

(From Rachael Ray's The Book of Burger with my improvements)

Serves 6

Italian Ketchup:

I (8 ounce) can tomato sauce

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 clove garlic, grated

2 teaspoons brown sugar

1 teaspoon dried oregano

Salt and Pepper

Veggie Burgers:

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 small carrot, chopped

1 small onion, chopped

12 cremini mushroom (the brown ones), chopped

2 tablespoons fresh thyme

4 cloves garlic, chopped

A small handful dried porcini mushrooms

2 1/2 cups cooked brown lentils *see note*

1 1/2 cups cooked quinoa *see note*

1 cup canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1/4 cup pine nuts or almonds, toasted

1/4 cup dried currants or raisins

1 large egg

6 slices provolone cheese

6 crusty hamburger buns

Arugula, dressed lightly with lemon juice and olive oil

Make the ketchup: In a small saucepan, combine ketchup ingredients and bring to a bubble. Turn the heat to low, and simmer and thickened to the consistency of ketchup, 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the burgers: Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the carrot, onion, and mushrooms and sauté until tender. Add the thyme and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and cook another minute or two. Turn off the heat and cool.

Put the dried mushrooms in a food processor. Process to finely chop and then add the lentils, quinoa, chickpeas, nuts, and currants. Season with salt and pepper and add the cooked vegetable and egg. Pulse until well combined. You may have to do this in batches. Form 6 patties.

Wipe out the pan used to cook the vegetables and heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat. Cook the burgers 5 to 6 minutes, then flip carefully and cook 2 to 3 minutes more. Turn off the heat, top the burgers with the cheese and tent with foil to let the cheese melt while you toast the hamburger buns.

Smear the buns with the Italian ketchup, place the burgers on the roll bottoms, then top with the dressed arugula. Set the roll tops in place. Pour your glass of Beresan Rosé and enjoy!

*Notes to make this better*

First of all, make your patty mixture either the day before or early on the day you plan to make it so it can be well chilled. I discovered the following day, when frying up a patty for lunch that the "squooshed-out-patty problem" was basically eliminated.

For me, 1 cup of dry lentils came out to 2 1/2 cup cooked. Put the lentils in a saucepan and add 3 cups of water and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil then turn the heat down to a low simmer with the lid slightly ajar. Simmer for about 20 minutes.

Also, 1/2 cup of dry quinoa gave me the 1 1/2 cups cooked needed. First put the quinoa in a fine-mesh strainer and rinse with cold water while rubbing with your hands for a minute or two. This makes the quinoa deliciously nutty and not bitter. Drain well. Heat a saucepan to medium heat with a tablespoon of olive oil. Add the quinoa and stir until toasted. Add 1 cup of water and bring to a boil. Cover and turn the heat to low. Cook for 15 minutes then take off the heat and leave the lid on for 5 minutes.